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The bottom of a wood-carved basket is from the original logging cut of the tree. The handle on the basket is one of the roots that has grown underneath. This root has attached itself naturally to the opposite side of the root structure, and once formed becomes a natural handle. Careful planning in the carving phase preserves one of the main roots for use as the handle, while the interior is hollowed out forming the basket itself.
As an decor piece, the small basket is perfect. While they are smoothly sanded and finished on the inside, the outside shows all the detail of the original root. These baskets range in size from 8" to 10" in diameter at the top rim of the basket. more
These medium size root carved baskets are the perfect size as a fruit basket, or a small bread basket. Each basket is a unique piece of art, and they range in size from 10-12 inches in diameter at the top rim of the basket. more
Each of our large baskets are hand carved by a skilled wood carver and take many hours to complete. Large baskets are perfect as bread baskets and will add a special touch to any table. These baskets range in size from 12-14 inches in diameter at the top rim, and are about 8" - 9"
tall from the base to the top of the handle. more
Each of our extra large basket is a "command performance" all unto itself. A large dining table, or coffee table will be perfect to display the unique characteristics and all the detail in an extra large basket. These baskets range in size from 14-17 inches. more
MORE INFORMATION ABOUT HAND CARVED BASKETS AT WOLVERINEWOODART.COM
When a tree is harvested, the base or stump is left in the ground for six months then removed to begin its journey into becoming a truly unique piece of handcarved art. You will be proud to own and display your unique wood carved basket, or give one as a special gift. The color of the baskets vary depending on the type of soil the tree was growing in. The roots of trees absorb minerals from the soil along with water and in so doing display these unique colors. Colors typically range from a soft golden amber, to a reddish brown. It is not unusual to find a rainbow of colors in one single piece.
Shown below are some photos of hand carved baskets from our "Idea Gallery". Click on the smaller photos to view larger, more detailed photos.
If you're planning on giving a wedding gift, easter basket, or house warming gift to a special friend, the giving of a unique handcarved basket is one gift that will be appreciated for years to come. Each is unique and tends to find a honored place for display in everyone's home and heart.
Handcarving Baskets
Many baskets are handmade, but a basket that is handcarved out of one piece of wood, the root of a tree, displays the natural wood characteristics of a particular and unique tree. One thing I should say is that the making and carving of Root baskets does not involve the harvesting of any trees for the purpose of making baskets. The roots used in the carving of baskets are left over from the cutting of trees in managed forests where the trees are harvested as lumber for other construction purposes. The basket carvers are given permission to dig up the roots for carving from the people and businesses that log the trees for lumber.
The handle of the basket is an integral part of the root structure itself, not a separate piece that is somehow "added on". Despite the seeming complexity of carving, anyone with hand-tool skills can learn to carve. Obviously, if you goal is making a particular reproduction, it is essential to sketch out details in advance. Carving allows you a way to express youself as do other forms of artwork. Each basket will never be exactly the same, as a carving is made one patient cut at a time. Each cut made by the individual maker's hand.
Porportion is essential to a carved basket. If the details of the carving are disproportionate with the scale of the overall piece, it will distract from the overall look of the finished basket. Once you have chosen the basic details you want to carve, it is helpful to create a simple sketch of the finished piece. Because carving is three-dimensional, it is important to consider how light will play off of the finished surfaces.
When working with hand or power carving tools it is very important to secure the work. If the piece is not secure, it will either be ruined, or worse yet, you could sustain a severe cut or injury. Sharp carving tools, hand or powered need to be respected and used properly at all times. Your piece can be clamped, or fastened to a backup board, and sometimes it is necessary to devise a special jig to clamp the work without damaging it. When properly secured, then the workpiece can be clamped or temporarily fastened to a workbench.
The best work always begins with sharp tools, There is nothing more frustrating than having a gouge slip because it's not sharp enough to bite into the wood. Investing in professional sharpening tools will yield satisfying results for many years, and prevent injury. Local woodworking supply shops are a good source of slipstones made in many shapes matching all types of carving tools. Many professional powered sharpening stones and tool holding jigs are also available, although they tend to be expensive.
You will want to cut with the grain or across it, never against it. If you cut against the grain of wood, you will splinter or tear out the wood instead of cutting it. If you are finding it difficult to determine the direction of the grain, try taking a light cut. If the tool is digging in instead of cutting cleanly, turn around and cut in the opposite direction. Cutting across the grain is a good method for initial shaping and quickly removing excess material. Whenever possible, the final surface and shape should be created by cutting with the grain. Do not try to remove all of the tool marks they are the true sign of a hand-carved work. Remember when carving to resist the temptation to use sandpaper. Sanding between stages of carving may help with your visualization of the finished piece, but the abrasive grit will lodge in the pores of the wood and will quickly dull your tools when you begin carving again.
Gift Giving
Usually when we think of giving a gift basket, the basket is not the gift. But, if you fill a root carved basket with gifts it becomes a very desireable gift basket indeed. Whether you fill it with baby shower gifts, wedding shower gifts, or a friends favorite selection of coffee, the best part is when the gifts are removed from the basket, the basket is there to take a prominent place in the home.
I have a friend that uses a extra large basket to keep all his dog's toys in. He keeps it under a bench in the den and is in the process of teaching his dog to put toys back into the basket. The dog seems pretty smart because she knows that not only are the toys hers, but that the basket is too. I can't say that she'll ever be perfect at putting her toys away, but I thought it was impressive that she knows that is her toy basket. If he puts something that is not a toy of her's in the basket, she takes it out. Pretty smart, I think.
You may not immediately think that a wood carved basket would look good in a bathroom, but they do. Small baskets are perfect for bathrooms. A collection of handmade soaps, or rolled finger towels look very nice and definetly add to the decor of any bathroom. Even if the bathroom is modern in design, the striking contrast of a natural wood basket is so different that it doesn't look out of place, it looks special.
Many modern kitchens have islands, and counter areas that separate the kitchen from an adjoining breakfast nook, dining area, or great room. This is an ideal place to keep a basket of fresh fruit. The medium carved wood basket is a good size for a reasonable assortment of fresh fruit. They are large enough to hold 6 to 8 pieces of your favorite healthy snack. So you can easily put in the medium basket three or four bananas, a couple large apples, and a couple good size oranges, and have a very attractive arrangement of fruit.
The history of baskets and basketry
Archaeological evidence, together with the example of primitive tribes in recent times, suggests that the earliest containers used by neolithic man range from hollowed out pieces of stone or wood to more elaborate artifacts such as bags of animal skin and, above all, baskets. Basketry is one of the earliest crafts to be developed. Almost every region of the world has suitable materials, in grasses, reeds or willows, and the resulting object is both cheap and light.
But baskets are not good for containing liquids. For that purpose early technology soon finds another material which is cheap, widely available and (by comparison with stone) relatively light. This material is clay.
Archaeologists have unearthed baskets in upper Egypt dating between 10,000 and 12,000 years old. Baskets have been found in other Middle Eastern sites up to 7000 years old. Why is this significant? The earliest dates for baskets are far older than any yet established by archaeologists for pottery.
Our ancestors, no matter where they lived, or who they were, made baskets. In every part of the world, basket making has been practiced. Used as carrying vessels, the first baskets were eventually replaced by clay pots, with the clay pressed around a basket to create a more robust pot.
Basket making is still found around the world today in many forms, using a variety of techniques and materials similar to those used by our ancestors. While continuing on as a living tradition, basket making has undergone a revival of interest among craftspeople, leading to new forms of expression. Just as weavers make pictures with tapestry, basket makers use basketry techniques to create sculptures.
Our ancestors gathered and prepared their own materials. You may prefer (or need) to purchase your materials. Rattan core, also known as reed, has been used to some extent for many years. However, the increasing number of new artisans, along with the scarcity of native woods, has meant that more supplies must be imported to replace the natural materials that were once used. Flat reed has replaced ash, oak and hickory splits. Round reed has replaced willow, oak and other vine-like materials that were used for ribbed or twined baskets.
In the past, baskets were used for storage and transportation of goods, with decoration being an afterthought. While most people still enjoy a functional basket today, our modern society seems to be more interested in baskets that serve a decorative purpose, than those of our ancestors.
There has been controversy over the origins of the names of baskets. In the past, baskets were usually named for their uses, the location in which they were made, the people who made them or occasionally objects that the baskets resembled. The Shaker Cat-Head basket, for instance, was made by Shaker communities and resembles a cat's head. The most commonly known egg basket is the "twined-bottomed" or "flat" basket associated with the mountain areas of the southeastern USA. It was likely used for gathering eggs because eggs placed in these baskets did not roll around in the specially-shaped bottoms. More farmers gathered potatoes in a round, side-handled basket than any other hence the potato basket. Once upon a time, someone realized that a tall-handled, shallow basket was perfect for gathering flowers, so today we have a provender or flower basket. The oriole basket looks like an oriole's nest, it isn't meant for carrying these birds.
Basket making might seem like an antiquated craft in our modern world, but vendors are still seen in craft shows or at farmer’s markets around the country. There is a certain quaintness surrounding basket making, probably because it is one of the only crafts that has never been modernized. While there are weaving machines that make cloth, basket making in any form has never been successfully accomplished using a machine.
What is interesting about the craft of basket making is that, while many other crafts have become mechanized or automated, no one yet has invented a machine that can make baskets. Baskets are still handmade, even in parts of the world where basket-making has become a commercial commodity. It is not an easy task to mass-produce baskets, in fact, no one has ever really improved upon the basic techniques of basket making.
One of the more interesting, and sometimes frustrating things about the root baskets is that they all tend to dry out and can develop small or sometimes even large cracks or fissures in the wood. This usually happens where the bottom of the basket meets the side of the root basket. There is little that can be done to eliminate this from happening. Wood is wood, and all things made of wood will eventually dry to match their surrounding environment.
In the case of the root baskets, one needs to understand that from a solid mass of root structure, a great deal of material is removed in the carving process. What once may have been a very stable structure is weakened by the removal of wood, and sometimes this can lead to a situation where there are wood grains fighting against one another. I always say that when this happens, someone is eventually going to win. It's kind of like arm wrestling. At some point there will be a winner. When this happens, it usually produces a crack, or fracture in the wood somewhere.
If a root basket should develop a crack, there are basically three things one can do: ignore the crack, throw out the basket, fix the crack. It might seem more trouble than it's worth to fix the crack, but many people have root baskets that they are really fond of, and having to throw it out is just not an option. To ignore the crack would be ok, but after a while one tends to get tired of looking at the basket with a noticeable crack in the side or bottom. That leaves the third option of fixing the crack. I've been faced with this situation many times, and have come to just accept the fact that in some cases, it will be necessary to fix a crack in the basket.
When I first started fixing cracks in root baskets several years ago, I tried just about all the commercial wood fillers that you would find at any of the big box stores like Home Depot, Lowes, etc. Most of the tools and materials that I use daily come from one or another wood store like Rockler, or Woodcraft. They specialize more in the items that woodworkers and cabinet makers would typically be looking for. One commercial wood filler that I do use from time to time is FamoWood. It's available in a range of colors and quickly dries so it is easy to sand and stain. The biggest problem with all of the commercial fillers that I tried, is that they are not made for use where they will be applied very thick, or "deep" if you prefer. When you use them in this way, and Plastic Wood comes to mind, they tend to dry unevenly, or shrink and crack themselves. This pretty much defeats what you're trying to accomplish when fixing a crack in a root basket.
If the basket crack is very small or thin, almost any filler will work, but you will want to squeeze some good quality wood glue in there before you apply any filler. Filler is not designed to glue wood together, just to fill a "stable" void. Most often a basket crack is "in the process" of becoming wider, or bigger. It seems that if most starting cracks are left unattended, they will ultimately end up about 1/4" to 1/2" wide at the top rim of the basket. Many times if you catch a crack while it is still small, you can stop it from progressing any further. Sometimes however, this is just not possible. On occasion there will be unreleased, or stored energy in the basket that will just let loose all at once. I've had baskets sitting on my shelf that have all of a sudden gone kaboom. Sitting there not being disturbed at all, they just let loose. This is just stress energy that was not removed during the drying processes.
So many of you might be wondering, just how would I fix a typical crack or split in a basket or bowl? Let's assume for a moment that the type of crack we are talking about starts at the bottom edge of the basket,
goes to the center bottom, and all the way up the side to the rim of the basket where it might be as much as 1/2" wide at the rim. These are the most serious types of splits, and also are the most common. As I
mentioned earlier, I found commercial fillers not compatible with this type of repair, so I developed my own filler. It really is quite simple, but seems to work really well on these large splits. I will describe it for you.
My filler is a combination of just two things, wood and glue. I have many different saws, but one that I use quite a lot is my power mitrebox, or cutoff saw. When I need to make filler, I take the lightest colored 2 x 4
that I have on hand, and simply start making cuts off the end producing a coarse sawdust. When I have a quantity, maybe a cup or two, I'll set it aside for use as my filler material. To make the filler, take a couple
good size pinches, or maybe 2-3 tablespoons and put it in a small plastic bowl. Then take a good quality wood glue like Titebond II, or Titebond III and mix the glue into the sawdust a little at a time. This process is
like making bread dough in a way. Just add a little glue at a time, mixing it around in the bowl until the mix in the bowl has the consistency of a sticky, or lumpy oatmeal. That is the best description I can think of to describe the amount of glue or moisture you want in the mix.
The reason I use the lightest colored 2 x 4 that I have on hand is that I am going to want to stain the area that is repaired after it is dry and sanded, and the light color wood gives you more flexibility in matching the color of the repaired area to the color of the surrounding basket wood. So with that in mind, let's talk about getting the filler into the crack. If you remember, I said a sticky oatmeal consistency. This is because if you have this filler mixed right, it will stay where you put it. If you have it too dry, it won't mush into the small crack areas, and if you have it too liquid, it won't stay put in the large, more open areas of the crack to be filled. So, you may need to play with the consistency a little to get it just right, but that's easy enough to do. Just add a little more sawdust, or a little more glue until you have the filler just right.
If you want you can use a small piece of a plastic bondo scraper to press the filler in place. I just use my fingers, as the mix is all water soluble anyway. Once you have the crack fully filled with the mix, I use a little water on my fingertips and smooth over the exposed area of the crack to even out the filler. Then just set the basket or bowl aside for at least 24 hours. I'll let mine dry for 48 hours if there is a lot of filler
A good friend of mine, and a fine woodworker in his own right, Dick Fryer, would use the term leave the filler a "little proud", meaning a little "over full" for sanding purposes later. After the fill material has fully dried or cured, you can begin to sand it smooth.
I've got all kinds of tools for doing just that, but the one I use most if my Foredom flexible shaft grinder. It is much like a dremel tool, except an industrial version. This tool allows me to grind or sand the filler in the basket crack without disturbing the surface or finish on the wood immediately next to the crack. I will tell you that the less you disturb the finish on the basket, the less you will have to refinish when you're done sanding the repaired area. Sooner or later, it ends up being a small piece of sandpaper in your hand, and carefully sanding just the area that's been repaired. If you have a little patience, and take your time, it will turn out fine. If you get in a big hurry, you'll probably end up making a bigger mess then you started with.
Now as far as the staining goes, there are a couple schools of thought here. It depends on how serious you want to get with the retouching. Personally, I'm usually happy with a good, solid, structural repair that is smooth to the touch, and has a clear shellac finish on the repaired area. If you want to spend a little more time and effort, you can play around with a couple compatible color stains, but I would warn you to make
sure you clear coat the raw wood in the repaired area first before using most colors. The wood is very porous and will suck up the stain color quickly. If the color you are planning to use is just the slightest bit too dark, you will end up with the repair being too dark and having to sand it or even start all over again. So, I put on a light coat of clear shellac first and let it dry before going to apply any color.
If you are creative, or have art or painting talent, you could probably almost make the repair disappear. Sometimes I'll use two or three different colors or tints of shellac to call attention away from the fact that there is a repair. The one thing that you just can't completely get away from is the fact that there is a repaired area. Sometimes I almost think it is better to just let it be what it is, a repaired crack.
I remember reading once about repairs that had been made to some very large, Hawaiian bowls. These bowls were very old, and had been repaired many times. They were from a collection of bowls that had been created and used in festivals from long before we ever set foot on the islands. They used a repair method that entailed the use of a butterfly shaped
wood repair plug. This butterfly shape could effectively be tapped into place to keep a split from going any further, and help to bring it back together somewhat. Today, the bowls from this collection that have the most repairs are considered the most valuable. So, on my baskets, I repair when necessary.
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